Bay Garnett’s Paxos: where the stylist finds peace and freedom on the Greek isle

From whiling away mornings with a good book to swimming in the Ionian sea at dusk,

Where is your favourite destination and why?

Paxos! I feel so at peace there. And for me, Greece has a mystery to it that I love. It’s steeped in history and has a feeling of otherworldliness.

When was the last time you were there and who were you with?

I went last summer with my husband and kids, and I also met up with lots of friends while there.

Explore the island via boat for an unforgettable day

Getty Images/iStockphoto

Where do you like to stay there?

We usually rent a house. It’s an incredible farmhouse, high up in the mountains on the West coast, so you get the lovely sunset, and the look is what you might imagine of Brigitte Bardot’s house in Saint Tropez. It almost resembles a fisherman’s cottage. It’s very simple with only three bedrooms but it’s beautifully done.

It also has an incredible garden, with olive trees, hammocks and a small pool. It felt so tucked away and private. We booked through Scott Williams.

What are your top restaurants?

I like to eat traditional Greek food at this restaurant which is called Grandfather’s Hanger in Greek. It does very simple but delicious food, like perfectly-cooked aubergine and chicken — and the dips are amazing! Though my favourite dish there would probably be the falafel with lamb.

I’d also recommend Erimitis. It’s high up on the west coast and it’s a great spot to have an early drink and watch the sunset.

What would you do if you only had 24 hours there?

I would wake up and read my book first thing, lying in a hammock at the farmhouse. I have so many novels that I’ve read there which now really remind me of Paxos, such as Jonathan Franzen’s Freedom, Anita Brookner’s Hotel du Lac and George Eliot’s The Mill on the Floss. Then, I’d have my breakfast of Greek yogurt with granola and then hang out with my family.I’d then drive down to Ben’s Bar, which is brilliant – it’s on Monodendri beach, between the Loggos harbor and the village of Lakka.

Last year, my daughter and I swam out at dusk, and we saw the moon over the mountains. It was incredible

You should go for the day! It’s run by Ben and his mother, Effie, who cooks the most delicious food on the balcony. There’s no pool there but you’re facing the sea, so you can lie on sun loungers and swim in the Ionian. Ben is really into his music, and he has an incredible playlist, which is so eclectic. You’ll get a mix of genres from afrobeat to funk.

Ben’s playlist is the best on the island

Ben’s Bar, Paxos

I often meet my friends down there and we eat, swim and dance. As the evening approaches, I’d go for an early night swim. Last year, my daughter and I swam out at dusk, and we saw the moon over the mountains. It was incredible.

I’d recommend renting a boat from Roxi Bar in Longos for the day. It’s a gorgeous way to explore the island and its caves. You can also visit nearby Antipaxos, which is lovely. I would also recommend finding a deserted beach and setting up camp there.

I love to find a quiet spot where I can read and have a swim. Though in general, as Greece has the most beautiful sea and skies, I’d recommend taking a moment to simply absorb and appreciate the scenery and try to immerse yourself in it. I get real pleasure from this because I live in a city, where these things easily pass you by.

Bella Vista Bar Restaurant Antipaxos

Bella Vista is an amazing place to have lunch on Antipaxos. It’s got all of these natural steps up to it and there’s the most incredible views from the cliff.

Where do you like to let your hair loose?

I like to have fun and dance at Ben’s Bar. Dancing is such a tonic. My kids also like to go to this place called Diana’s, which is the island nightclub.

Who do you call to have a good time there?

Quite a lot of my old school friends go to Paxos, but I’ve also met lots of new people out there too.

I’m all for finding weird things, like a homemade camouflage swimsuit. I’m not into the mainstream print dresses and bohemian clothes that you see everywhere. I like finding original pieces, like this imperial purple sarong which I bought.I also love shopping at international chemists, so I always go to the local one to see what hair clips and bands they’ve got. You can sometimes find some really good ones with diamantes on them.

The one thing you would bring home as a souvenir?

I love shopping for soaps or tablecloths or even rooting out a great basket to channel my inner Jane Birkin. I like finding more eclectic pieces, from shops off the main track. Gaios and Logos both have cute boutique shops with great clothes.

Your favourite beauty spot?

I don’t really have beauty treatments or massages while I’m there. To me that feels quite urbane. Paxos is the place where I feel like I don’t need those things. For me, reading, chatting, dancing and having fun is the best tonic.

I always take my swimsuits, my sarongs and most importantly five novels, so I’ve got a choice in case I don’t like one. I can’t not have a book. It’s also important for me to have my favourite skincare products. Right now I am loving Charlotte Tilbury Flawless Primer and Charlotte Tilbury Collagen Facial Oil and my scent Scandal by Roja.

Don’t forget to pack your Charlotte Tilbury primer

Charlotte Tilbury

A song that reminds you of the place?

Any songs by The Beach Boys or The Comrades which are played at Ben’s Bar.

Your dress code for the destination?

Very relaxed. I always take my summery vintage clothes. I’ve got this Adidas men’s vest, which is yellow and faded. It isn’t the sexiest thing but it’s cool. In the evenings, I’ll wear a vintage silk bed jacket over a vest. I also always take my belts and chiffon pieces, as I love the pirate look.